Sunday, December 12, 2010

As close as it comes. Kambi/Minca

I don't know why this wasn't my first post. Probably wrapped up in my born-and-raised-in-NYC psyche is that you don't speak about your favorite places except amongst close friends out of fear that someone from Time Out will write about it and completely and utterly destroy the place with tourists and NYU students.  I am also confused by it's completely middle of the road ranking on Yelp.

Since Time Out already has it as their second best ramen joint [link] and it is right on the edge of NYU and the wanna-be dorms that is Sty Town, I guess if it was going to be over run, it would have happened by now.

So, here it is, my favorite ramen shop:
Kambi Ramen House - 351 E 14th St 


and its equally good, more funky, smaller, have to wait for a seat every time sister:
Minca Ramen Factory - 536 E 5th St






Service & Ambiance: I tend not to go to Minca because it has the same exact quality in a much tighter, rushed, and frankly dumpier atmosphere. It could be mistaken for trying to imitate a Tokyo ramen shop, but it's really just a LES first floor apartment dive. Kabi is a modern take on a ramen place and rarely do I have an issue having a party of 4 seated right away. It is large, so that helps, but I don't find it very busy. Unlike Minca, I haven't been asked to leave.


Either way, you are getting a hearty welcome (only second to Ippudo), a menu with Japanese and English, an inquisitive look when you don't order goyza (I don't get why that is mandatory) and kitchen staff that will cook your noodles "kata" (al dente) if you ask them to.


Broth: This is the closest to a creamy pork broth as I can find. It is excellent. I am puzzled by Yelp comments saying the broth isn't much. I have to think they are looking for something else because this is excellent tonkotsu broth. They also have a chicken broth I tried once. It was fine, but I can't really rate it as I'm not in to it.


Noodles: Good. I never know what to say about noodles. I've never had "bad" ramen noodles and their taste largely comes from the broth and seasoning in the bowl. If they aren't mushy, I'm good. These are cooked right. You can get thick, thin, wavy and for some reason whole wheat and bean. Choice is always good.


Egg: Yup. Over cooked, but a soft boil just isn't going to happen for me. It's good, seasoned and there.


Pork: Oh yes! Not the mega pork you get in Japan, but this is belly with a nice piece of fatty soft, melts-in-your-mouth pork. Yes.


I'd agree Ippudo has a better broth, but since the wait time is 1 to 2 hours for a meal that should take 20 min, it's impossible to recommend it. So, go to Kambi, enjoy it. If you see any tourists ask you the way, point them to the west side. Maybe they just haven't figured out where it is yet.

Sunday, December 5, 2010

Where I'm coming from

I haven't written a quarter of the reviews I have to write. However, the ones I have written I think have sounded overly critical. With only two places in NYC I can say I really like, I guess they are mostly going to be downers.

That said, I've been trying to figure out what I was looking for. The other day, over a bowl of good ramen from Kambi (there, one of the two places I'll recommend) I was looking at some ramen pictures from my trip over the summer. I went to Tokyo to search out the best ramen in the world and the differences was obvious from the pictures...


Look at that egg. Not an over cooked hard boiled egg with no flavor. Soft boiled, delicate and full of flavor that compliments the soup. 

Can you see the fat content in the soup? Look at this close up:

The thick creamy taste of a Hakata style tonkotsu (pork bone - yes, bone with marrow!) broth that has been left to simmer for many many hours just can't be beat.


Let's talk pork. LOOK AT THOSE PIECES. Big, thick, fatty. Not dried out thin wafers hiding in the broth because they are embarrassed. After the broth, the pork slices are the most important part of the bowl. Unfortunately, I just don't think you'll find pork belly slices like this show up in your bowl. Kambi/Minca certainly comes close, they are small, but perfectly fatty pieces.

The noodles are usually standard. I'm not able to discern the subtle differences in the different homemade noodles and the once from a noodle "factory". I will say, it is important to ask for the noodles to be al-dente or "kata" or they will be served too soft and become a little to mushy by the end. It is usually served a little less well done here if you don't ask.  


I'm not sure the exact reason we have such sub-par flavored ramen. I don't know if it is made to be "healthy" for the NY/LA audience? No one walks in and asks for a slice pizza made with low fat mozzarella, do they?


The hunt continues....